Can anyone here make these for me?

maddhatter · 09-04-2008, 06:27 PM

I need some soild tube stock with a Lt tap on one end and a RT tap on the other. What I want to do is screw one end on the the link arm and a heim joint into the other end to make the arms longer so that they can be mounted on the side or bottom of the frame with a heim.

JeffK5 · 09-04-2008, 09:21 PM

Custom radius arms with like 1 1/4" joint on each end..?

maddhatter · 09-04-2008, 10:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffK5

Custom radius arms with like 1 1/4" joint on each end..?

Well I want to keep the arms stock if I can so if they do snap there easy to find. I want them stock at the axle and where there a though bolt set up now I would like to screw on and adapter with a heim on the other end.
Then mount that on the frame.

94Dodge Truggy · 09-04-2008, 10:31 PM

Welding to those stock cast arms will take some time and skill to be done right.

JeffK5 · 09-04-2008, 10:38 PM

I see, little tiny adjuster links .

Each little link would have a RH taped hole for the existing end of the stock radius arm and on the other end would have a LH taped hole for a heim.

When you buy your joints get them with weld in bungs and the rest should be easy.

Assuming the thread on the radius arm is easily duplicated.

I have some solid 2" stock

JeffK5 · 09-04-2008, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 94Dodge Truggy

Welding to those stock cast arms will take some time and skill to be done right.

No welding... they thread on

maddhatter · 09-04-2008, 10:52 PM

Yes. Thats right Conyer did his by welding them but if they ever brake he would have to fab up a whole new arm I am thinking this way there stock arms and easy to replace. I did find a pic of Conyers setup It flexes way better then most might think it would.

maddhatter · 09-04-2008, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffK5

I see, little tiny adjuster links .

Each little link would have a RH taped hole for the existing end of the stock radius arm and on the other end would have a LH taped hole for a heim.

When you buy your joints get them with weld in bungs and the rest should be easy.

Assuming the thread on the radius arm is easily duplicated.

I have some solid 2" stock

I am looking into what the thread is now.

JeffK5 · 09-04-2008, 11:06 PM

Bad thing is your now using the that threaded part of the arm to hold the rigs weight , Ford intended those threads to retain the arm in the bushing socket not hold up 3,000 lbs.

maddhatter · 09-05-2008, 01:04 PM

My thinking is that there is far more stress on the treaded part of the bar at the point of the bushing now then there would be with a much flexyer Heim.
I do see the point you are making as things are made to work in a certain way. I just think most the weight is on the coils and most the pressure on the new links should be from axle rap. I am torn as to if the link should be welded to the bar after it is screwed on and just the Heim would be ajustable and removable if they were welded. But that would make then much stronger I think. I don't want to make them 2' longer maybe 1' (6" for treads on both ends). It's not like I have seen this done before and it will be something I would just have to try and see how they hold up but if it works it would make the front have way more travel and flex and also easy to replace if it brakes.
So it just seems to be worth a try.

JeffK5 · 09-05-2008, 03:48 PM

I thought I had 2" round stock ... turned out to be 2" DOM tubing with 3/8 wall....plenty strong.

carwash · 09-05-2008, 06:05 PM

where the hell did you get tubing that ridiculously thick? hahaha

maddhatter · 09-05-2008, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeffK5

I thought I had 2" round stock ... turned out to be 2" DOM tubing with 3/8 wall....plenty strong.

It will have to be tapped any way so that should be perfect.
I'm still tring to find out the tread on the bars.

09-04-2008, 06:27 PM	#1
maddhatter Join Date: May 2007 Location: loveland OH Posts: 324	Can anyone here make these for me? I need some soild tube stock with a Lt tap on one end and a RT tap on the other. What I want to do is screw one end on the the link arm and a heim joint into the other end to make the arms longer so that they can be mounted on the side or bottom of the frame with a heim.

09-04-2008, 10:31 PM	#4
94Dodge Truggy EX-Vice President Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Fairfield, Ohio Posts: 3,048	Welding to those stock cast arms will take some time and skill to be done right. __________________

09-05-2008, 06:05 PM	#12
carwash pimpin' IS easy Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Union, KY Posts: 3,344 Images: 605	where the hell did you get tubing that ridiculously thick? hahaha __________________

09-04-2008, 09:21 PM	#2
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Custom radius arms with like 1 1/4" joint on each end..?

09-04-2008, 10:38 PM	#5
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	I see, little tiny adjuster links . Each little link would have a RH taped hole for the existing end of the stock radius arm and on the other end would have a LH taped hole for a heim. When you buy your joints get them with weld in bungs and the rest should be easy. Assuming the thread on the radius arm is easily duplicated. I have some solid 2" stock

09-04-2008, 10:52 PM	#7
maddhatter Join Date: May 2007 Location: loveland OH Posts: 324	Yes. Thats right Conyer did his by welding them but if they ever brake he would have to fab up a whole new arm I am thinking this way there stock arms and easy to replace. I did find a pic of Conyers setup It flexes way better then most might think it would.

09-04-2008, 11:06 PM	#9
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	Bad thing is your now using the that threaded part of the arm to hold the rigs weight , Ford intended those threads to retain the arm in the bushing socket not hold up 3,000 lbs.

09-05-2008, 01:04 PM	#10
maddhatter Join Date: May 2007 Location: loveland OH Posts: 324	My thinking is that there is far more stress on the treaded part of the bar at the point of the bushing now then there would be with a much flexyer Heim. I do see the point you are making as things are made to work in a certain way. I just think most the weight is on the coils and most the pressure on the new links should be from axle rap. I am torn as to if the link should be welded to the bar after it is screwed on and just the Heim would be ajustable and removable if they were welded. But that would make then much stronger I think. I don't want to make them 2' longer maybe 1' (6" for treads on both ends). It's not like I have seen this done before and it will be something I would just have to try and see how they hold up but if it works it would make the front have way more travel and flex and also easy to replace if it brakes. So it just seems to be worth a try.

09-05-2008, 03:48 PM	#11
JeffK5 Tiny Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Colerain Posts: 798	I thought I had 2" round stock ... turned out to be 2" DOM tubing with 3/8 wall....plenty strong.