03-17-2011, 11:35 PM | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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Yoda Monster :full blown fj40 rear steer tube buggy
WANTED: FJ40 window frame and a good hood.
LATEST PIC LATEST DRAWING Large pile of 70s Jap rust Double frame rail tube chassis 3800 super charged V6 904 trans 5.1 atlas Raceline wheels 40/17 maxxis trepador tires 60 front w/PSC steering, Dynatrac chromoly shafts and joints, Dynatrac Hubs, Detroits w/5.13 60 rear w/PSC steering, cv shafts and joints, Detroits w/5.13 alu links johnnies on lowers, hiems on uppers PRP seats Griffin radiator and coolers Vintage heat and air Fiberglass hood, fenders and grill most of the work is being done by Richard at The http://thehobbieshop.com/ Hard to say what it really is. It not a frame build since everything is tubed. Not really a tube buggy since it has a boxed cab. It will have some exo cage and some not. A real mixed up beast, just like I want it. The build started out as a 4link on my YJ(pictured in the back of the second shot), in record time it got way out of hand. I took the jeep apart for the build and then decided that an FJ build would be better. Being a tube buggy it doesn't need much of the original truck the FJ laying outside of Richard's shop seemed liked perfect match. At that point i dragged the FJ in and tore it apart. Then Richard built the subframe for the drivetrain and for something that the body could mount to. Dimple died engine mounts are sweet. Not really needed and you can't really see them but that is how he does things. Lots of cool touches if you look real close. Then the REAL cutting began and it's not even close to being chopped yet. Richard cut it up and put enough together to start framing the build. The next big cuts will be under the door. It will have a major boat side with cutting board skids. Trying to keep it a low center of gravity, the design is centered around being able to slide over and threw stuff with ease. I didn't want a full SUV like an FJ40 but the FJ45 offered way to little room in the cab. When bouncing it freaks me out having metal and glass so close. Also will let me move the seat back and have room for stereo junk and a cooler inside the cab. The back is shorter then an FJ40 but longer then an FJ45. Basically an FJ45 king cab. Maybe an FJ46? If there was such a thing. ;) After that I put the hood and tires on to get an idea of the look. Me liky! Tires in the pic are not spaced like we will have it and the whole buggy will be a little higher. Total of 116 wheel base is what we came up with. Next update will have the boat side and the body tied in. Not sure when but there will also be a 6 to 8 inch square bed on the back to balance the look of the front hood. |
03-17-2011, 11:37 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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ere is the latest goings on for the FJ project.
For the sides we went with a huge boatside and tapered them. This cut out most of the rust and gave me the boatside I wanted. The tapered was added to deal with the FJ body that has a taper to it. Along with matching that it serves a really cool function. When buggy is on a rock on the boat side it will push the rear UP and OUT. This makes it more like a race boat design rather then the basic john boat often put on a buggy with a boatside. If you look close you can see Richard dimple the body mount. He really loves that tool and not afraid to use it. :) I think it's cool as hell too. :jam Keeping the rig with a very low COG it has to be able to slide very well. While the rig will look like the width of a normal FJ in fact, the bottom will be VERY narrow and with the steep boatside it should cut threw rocks like a boat in water. Putting on cutting board like skidplates will help. I'm still not decided on the sides, having the cutting board stuff like i'll put on the bottom will likely be the best. I'm thinking running aluminium on the boatside for looks. Not sure how much drag compared to the cutting board material. It will look like the rig will have ZERO floor space with the sides like that but in fact Richard will be cutting in as channel on the floor for legroom. The center console will be higher and will divide the interior like a rally car. One of the nicest touches is the door jam. Eventhough the doors are cut way up they still will seal and keep out water and other stuff from coming into the cab. and finally the rear window. Just going with a plexi rear window an most of the time just open but having a nice channel to put it in will be nice. Now that is what i call a rear truck window! |
03-17-2011, 11:46 PM | #3 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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not that great a picture but as you can see there is LOTS of room left in the cab. even with
the huge boatsides the floor space is more the roomy. that kinda looks like an FJ now :lol: well that is pretty much it boys, believe it or not this this is heading off to paint. the exo is going to be put on after that and most of the work done when it comes back. worked out a deal for a guy to do all the prep work and paint. i really didn't have any plans to make it look that nice but a good deal couldn't be passed up. so let the fun times begin. |
03-18-2011, 01:19 AM | #4 |
I read your thread on MUD and you are going to have a swwet ride there... I think you can still call it a 40... Can't wait to see it on the trail...
__________________
chris hodges
96 fzj80 3x locked, 4"lift, 37s, homebrew sliders and bumpers,a work in progress 71 fj55, SOA, locked...The jungle bus... retired |
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03-18-2011, 12:34 PM | #6 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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Only using the corner glass. The big window and front window were both cut and pushed together to make that onw small window. I'll just use sow plexi for that.
I still have the small windows and the big ones I'm not sure if I took them out right or with a big hammer. You looking for parts or wondering what I did to make the cab? |
03-18-2011, 07:04 PM | #7 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: 1
Posts: 92
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I like it! You might consider some protection at the cowl area, they seem to take a beating there when wheeled hard. I'm gonna be watching this build. Keep us updated.
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03-19-2011, 01:32 AM | #8 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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Cowl area?
Under the windshield area should be covered. It will have a cab exo cage. Not a full exo rig but a hybrid coming out only To protect jap metal. |
03-19-2011, 09:23 AM | #9 |
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: 1
Posts: 92
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Cowl =the side of the rig under the windshield, right above the flip out vent and also the side of the hood. In your drawing (which is nice) you don't show any there.
If you ever plan on doing Lion's den or Canopener you'll need it for sure. With all the work you're doing it'd be a shame to trash it out in that area. Not to mention that's pretty much the hardest area to repair. |
03-19-2011, 10:01 AM | #10 | |
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03-21-2011, 01:30 AM | #11 |
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 6
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going to the shop on tues, i'll and see if we still have it.
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03-21-2011, 01:40 PM | #12 |
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NE Scott County, KY
Posts: 39
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Dave,
had you considered a bar going forward from the A-pilar exo bar horizontal to the fender bar and perhaps a hoop across the cowl from that to the other side...? Not sure it would look good, but would help avoid some damage. I can work up just a black and white with it..... |
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