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He then DA's and grinded the whole thing to make it pretty and smoothe. He now has the red boogers.
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And here are some shots of how the chassis sits now... tons of new tubes in. Gussets, Gussets, Gussets, supports, etc... Only a few more tubes and i will have the upper chassis done. Then it's time to drop motor, trans, and tcase in for belly mockup.
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ok, updates updates updates...
Damn cold here now, got heaters pulling double duty. My bigger one keeps taking a crap on me, and the little one has a hell of a time trying to keep up witn the drafts coming in some of my huge gaps... but anyway...
My slide in clevis mounts are done, and installed. Makes a darn nice termination for that tubing. I love them. Utilitarian and takes care of my dead tubing issues...
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Put the dash bar in as well... where i put it will make an 8" dash. 9 seemed like too much and 7 seems like way too skinny
Had to figure out a way to locate the grill at the top as well so i busted out these little tabs and utilized a couple of the stock mounting holes in the grill. Pretty cool, I like them, and the grill is SOLID, it isn't moving.
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Then turned the chassis 90 degrees in the shop so i could get to all sides better. Kargomaster came over and helped me to day with all of this stuff. Also, Jeffhpk5 or whatever his gay screen name is stopped by as well and brought my fender tops and we talked shop and swapped steel all afternoon.
We managed to get the drivetrain in today, motor, trans, and tcase. Got them located in their final positions. This took a while and we are happy with their location. It's tough figuring out where to put all of it. How high? how far back? etc.
That STAK sure is a big pig, but i will gladly make room for it.
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Here is the line of how it all sits in the chassis...
The stak sits very close to passenger side frame rail. About a 1/2 to 3/4. Had to clock it to get it that far away. Also had to clock it so that the driveshaft would clear the trans pan, etc, and alleviate the need for a 2-piece shaft.
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Here are some wide shots of the drivetrain in the chassis. Next step is to make the belly around all of this.
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Got a little bit done tonight... working on the belly.
It's so nice when you bend up two pieces that are supposed to be identical, and they actually are... it's so rare for me it seems...
Got the sides of the belly on, and supports between them for the center link mounts... damn these things are beefy.
Mock fitted my BTF towers to get some rough measurements to put in the 4-link calculator.
This weekend the motor, trans and tcase should be final mounted, and i can raise the thing up to approximate ride height to finish up all the suspension...
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ok, this was my last weekend to work on the rig until after the first of the year. Next weekend is christmas and then we are heading to florida for week right after, and won't be back til Jan. 4th or so. So i did my best to get as much done as i possibly could this weekend.
My buddy Kargomaster came down to help both days, and Bobb came down today to help finish some things up. The whole day saturday was spent getting the crossmember/trans tcase mount together and mounted it. Got it pretty close to done by Sat night and finished it on sunday. Then got the motor mounts put in today as well.
The complete drivetrain is now sitting in the buggy without jackstands or any outside help.
The crossmember has four removal mounting points made with poly fabsets from DIY4X. This guy's stuff rules, and he charges way too little for this stuff.
How about some pics...
Making the center crossmember t-case mount. this was a *****, as the adapter/mount doesnt sit straight up and down, it has a slight rear pitch to it at the top, making guessing this angle difficult.
Kargomaster got a booboo. He uses a ***** guard on his grinder, and when he picked mine up and used it (no ***** guard), it bit him. He whined for an hour. jk.
Finished and installed mount. A work of art. I dont think this t-case is going anywhere. Braced everywhere... it will be the last thing to give.
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After getting the tcase solid, then moved to the motor mounts. Standard tube mounts, with a nice 1/4 inch gusset on the top. Should hold up just fine.
Some shots as it sits now, with the drivetrain held completely by the chassis.
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How much metal dust can you breathe in before it kills you?
Good 'ol PeteyG ran down the street from his house to the PRP factory and got some spy shots of my seats under construction. Crimson centers and piping, and slate gray on the rest. Hells yes.
So, last update i believe for a couple weeks. Oh well, better get hammering after i get back from Florida i guess...
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seats came today...
The colors turned out perfect. It's the exact red and gray i was going for. I am very pleased, and they are very comfortable. Got them from Scott at RBS, great guy.
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Very slow progress right now, vacations, holidays, laziness, etc...
Did get the rig at ride height (or as close as i can estimate) and it is scaring the hell out of me. I think it will come down a bit from where it is right now. but as it sits, its 6'11" at the top of the roll bar, 36" to the bottom of the rockers, 28" to the belly.
Built stands for my rockwells to get them at what i think will be close to my rolling radius, i built them about 19.5" or so. Finalized the numbers for my 4-link and settled on it. Not the best, but oh well, it's all i can do, see the other thread for discussion of that...
I also had questions about rear rockwell driveshaft offset, etc, that i started another thread about... blah blah blah.
A buddy of mine is turning the steel down for my lowers tomorrow and i may actually have the rear suspension in by the end of the week... will see i guess.
Here's a couple pics... I've lost my zest for taking pics of it now...
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Ok you impatient bastards... I finally got some time to work on this damn thing, and i got a lot done in the last two days.
Rear suspension is buttoned down, whooohoooo.
I also got the front mouont for the upper links higher, and got my AS to 94%. Still not great , but better than it was at least.
So, here are some pics...
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Rear airshocks at this point have about 7" of uptravel and 11" of downtravel. Seems to work fine, utilizing all the movement both up and down...
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