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buggy will not start

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  • #16
    If you have the diagnostic port installed it's normally just a matter of hooking up a scan tool and seeing if it will read it. If only certain parts/circuits are fried (I've seen this on Chrysler ECMs before) than sometimes a base level generic ready is harder to use. I know that a good reader like a DRBIII or newer that a dealership uses has the capability of looking at all of the parameters the ECM controls and therefore would be really easy to see if it was trying to trigger the pump.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by jeep304 View Post
      The first thing to know is to never have your ground clamp any more than about a foot away from the weld zone ! ! ! ! ! Your current passage is only
      between these two points. If you open up this distance the current can pass through anything in its path. I've known people to ground to the front and weld at the rear of a vehicle...again...anything in its path.....Nowa
      i thought this was a given... i guess not.


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      • #18
        New computer did not fix it. Looking at the ignition switch now, but the motor cranks and has spark but will not energize the fuel pump. When I left the key on for a week maybe it messed up the ignition switch? No idea, back to troubleshooting!:confused:
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        • #19
          Truggy

          Gey hold of crazi429.....ask him for help....after 6 pm.......Nowa

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 94Dodge Truggy View Post
            New computer did not fix it. Looking at the ignition switch now, but the motor cranks and has spark but will not energize the fuel pump. When I left the key on for a week maybe it messed up the ignition switch? No idea, back to troubleshooting!:confused:
            How about getting a diagnostic run on it. Do you know anyone that as a mobile unit, or can you get to an autozone or a repair shop with it?


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            • #21
              So many deleted sensors and wiring removed that a diagnostic machine would go brezerk I think.
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              • #22
                was just thinking maybe worth a try.


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                • #23
                  I am thinking that maybe from leaving the key on that something else may have fried itself.
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                  • #24
                    have you tried starting it by bypassing the ignition switch?

                    hell, just yank all the wiring and rewire it.


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                    • #25
                      I have thought about rewiring the whole thing. I would like to tackle that next winter. Good idea on the hard wire idea. I am going to run a power wire to the fuel pump and try to fire it up. I would do this permanently but the computer tells the pump when to energize and when to stop and the excess fuel bypasses in the tank and recirculates. The fuel does not get bypassed out by the fuel rails. Pretty simple design. Need to fool it!
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                      • #26
                        it's probably your ignition switch, prolly easily and cheaply had, im sure it was used across many models.


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                        • #27
                          Where in the hell do ya think they would put that switch? Never had to replace one. Could be the 1st ever.
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                          • #28
                            No spark and no power being sent to fuel pump, but will crank all day.
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                            • #29
                              Yuk, I hate electrical problems...
                              I guess that's part of my aversion to EFI for mine...

                              PROPANE BABY!!
                              brad

                              5.0L | 435 | 203 | 300 | 4.10 | 39.5
                              Buildup BACK underway...


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                              • #30
                                Electrical problems

                                When I had smilar problems with my CJ it ended up being a short in the wiring to the fuse block. I direct wired my coil to my power switch and my fuel pump is mechanical not electrical.
                                78 CJ-7, 350 V8, T-18a Tranny, Twin Stick Dana 300, Scout 44's, 4.27 Gears, 36" TSL's, Welded rear and Full Spool Front, Hi-Steer with GM Knuckles

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