I like your ground idea. I am going to try that after work tonight!
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Have you hooked up a diagnostic tool yet? Do you have the capability to do this (i.e. is the diagnostic port installed)?
Please don't take this personally, but you are wasting a lot of time and money throwing random parts at the engine and hoping you get lucky.
Anyway, here are a few places to start. This is assuming the ASD relay is good.
**NOTE: take a good look at any connectors you unhook for bent pins, loose wires/broken wires, dirt, or green crud (corrosion), my guess is this will the be the ultimate cause of the problem.
1. actuate ASD (we usually do it with the DRB tool but I believe turning the key on will do it also, but remember that I believe it will only give power to the fuel pump for a few seconds upon initial key-on)
2. touch fuel pump relay (located in the power distribution center...big fuse box), it should pulsate when you first turn the key on
2a. yes - turn ignition off, disconnect FP relay, (diagnostic procedure does not say to turn ignition back on???), probe cavity D on the PDC (location where the relay was), is voltage above 10 V?
2b. no - disconnect FP relay, turn ignition on, probe cavity A on the PDC (location where the relay was), is voltage above 10 V?
Also, while the FP relay is out check the resistance between pins 85 and 86. The resistance should be below 100 ohms. If not, the relay is probably bad.
This is further down the chart, but it would probably we worth it to do a visual inspection of the fuel pump harness connector (it's a 5 pin flat style connector, but can't remember exactly where it is).
If you get a chance do these procedures and see what the results are, then we can go from there.
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Originally posted by 94Dodge Truggy View Postdiagnostic port was eliminated a year ago along with the interior fuse panel. The fuse and relay box is still connected.
Couple of other things I forgot to mention.
Make sure you have at least 10V at the battery!
You can also do a quick check of the ASD relay the same way was the FP relay. Check to see if it's clicking when you key-on. If not, pull the relay and check the resistance between 85 and 86. Then probe cavity A on the PDC for voltage.
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Choosing to get rid of the diagnostic port eliminated 70 percent of the wires. I thought it would be easier to troubleshoot with less wires. That may have been a bad idea! Both the fuel pump relay and the asd relay do not click at all unless I fool the computer and run power to the coil and ground the black with brown wire and get the truck running.sigpic
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If you get a chance, do this to the ASD relay.......... pull the relay and check the resistance between 85 and 86. Then probe cavity A on the PDC for voltage.
If it's the auto-theft, then I'm not sure what to do. With the diagnostic tool it takes about 10 seconds to see if that is the issue (not trying to be a prick or anything, that's just the way it is).
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blazerbrad, do you have the complet set of wire diagrams for the 94? If you do the wire harnes can be rebuilt for what is needed and still be stripped down to the bare min.
94Dodge, do you still have all the wires and connectors you pulled? It would save a junk yard run. Did you buy a new programable computer? Maybe the auto theft could be turned off. Did you say the relays turn on after you jump things out? That would show they work if they do, if not they will need to be tested as blazerbrad said. You did say you bought new ones.
The autozone diagram is not the greatest and does not realy show the auto theft.
With the rebuilt harnes you could plug in the diagnostic tool and possibly not even have to if you discover a wire that is bad or missing.89 YJ EFI AMC 360, T18a, D20, built D44, 14 bolt, 38" Creepy Crawlers.
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Alright, here are a few more steps. Sorry for jumping around so much but I'm trying to decipher the procedure that is written assuming you are using a diagnostic tool.
Check power to the ASD relay as mentioned before.
Disconnect PCM connector and remove ASD relay. Check resistance in the circuit between the PCM and ASD connection (pin 51 of the PCM connector, and cavity C of the relay connector). Should be below 5 ohms.
I do not have the complete wiring diagram, just a few documents I scrounged up at work...we rarely do anything with vehicle that is not brand new, so I'm just lucky we still have some
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