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#1 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 88
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should be around 4:56 w/33"s ,the 4:88's are for towing and performance.
me personaly I like the pep of the 4:88's. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Troy, OH
Posts: 94
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Shoot me a PM with an e-mail address.
I've got an Excel file already built for 'Yota's that'll help you. I would personally leave the 31's and 4.10's alone. I wouldn't step up to the 4.88's until 33's. A lot of power can be extracted from the 22re purely by doing some exhaust work. |
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#3 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cincy, Oh
Posts: 947
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For what it's worth
I have a 22re with 4.88's it ran great on 36's. perfect for off road in my opinion was little high for street driving but still ran ok I have since moved to a taller tire 33's and 4.88's i think it would run like a raped ape real well is what i mean hell load your tires up and come over we will bolt them on if you want
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For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it.... |
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#4 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Beavercreek/Dayton
Posts: 47
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i lied about the rpms. Its about 2600 at 40mph in 3rd and 2800 at 70 in top gear. I am running 31 with 4.10s but thinking of throwing a old man emu 2.5 lift on it and putting 33's and i know where a set of 4.88 set up are for a decent price. And as far as the engine its a 20 over bore matched trd cam, decked block, trd long tubes no cat straight to a glass pack.
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches. |
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#5 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cincy, Oh
Posts: 947
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not sure i would lift it
but thats just me
__________________
For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it.... |
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#6 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 573
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a toyota at 70??? yikes!!! i would want good seat belts!!!! lol
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#7 |
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Beavercreek/Dayton
Posts: 47
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1989 ext cab yota 22re bored .20 over trd cam, trd headers, Marlin crawler front bumper w/stinger, Marlin crawler roll cage, trailgear rear bumper, trailgear rock sliders, richmond 5.29's, and lockright rear, 33 nokian mt's. 10k winch. Rear disc conversion. Chromoly rear axle shafts. Bombproof motor mounts and transfer case mount. Whole lot of rust and scratches. |
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#8 |
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Cincy, Oh
Posts: 947
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I lifted mine got bigger tires.
I lifted it again got bigger tires. started flopping over on speedbumps really was too high and flopped alot. got pissed off took body lift out to lower it back down. had issues with steering box hitting body mount ,cause i moved it after the lift and the trans/tcase hitting floor so after spending hours jacking with the body mount and days cutting 3'x4' hole in floor, cause i raised the trans/tcase it after the lift ,got it lowered back down. bottom line is it dont flip as easy as it used to on a speed bump I would trim fenders if they hit the 33's and move on lower with a bigger tire always looks better don't you think?
__________________
For you guys who can't drive, I have owned a frame rack for several years. Prices are based on your skill and ability to wreck it.... |
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#9 |
1986 4runner
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Monroe, Ohio
Posts: 38
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I have been watching this thread and have a question, I have a 86 runner 5spd and just bought 35" and been told to do 5.29's (per TG) but I have also been told to get 4.88's. I only plan on taking out to the trail (driving it) it's not a DD. I am also gearing the t-case for the trails. What's your opinion? Thanks!
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#10 | |
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Liberty Township
Posts: 14
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Quote:
I have to agree. If your not going big on tires and plan to keep it on the street, go with 4:56's and 33's. Save yourself some money and grab a factory third member from a 90-95 V6 4-runner with 4:56's. There's one at UPAP right now($60). The V6 third will bolt right up and is stronger. If your staying with IFS up front, you could even grab the front diff with 4:56's although it's not fun to pull. If your going SAS, just find another runner to pull the rear diff and you have cheap 4:56's with stronger thirds. I'm running 4:88's with 35's but MY runner is a SAS'ed 90 with the V6. I like it on the road and sorry to say it hasn't been off road enough with the new setup to give a good review. Almost forgot, This guy told me I could have the rear third for $50 if I pulled it and I just never had the time to go get it so there's 2. http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/pts/1503558113.html Last edited by neverfinished; 12-11-2009 at 11:51 PM. |
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