Project JimmyRig almost ready to begin.

[kyrel69]

I'm going to run a cable from AW direct , just like I had in the wrangler $43.00 and forget it .

Can you tell me more or let me know when you got this done and I could just come by and take a look at it.
I would like to do this to my truck

[BIGRAM]

Can you tell me more or let me know when you got this done and I could just come by and take a look at it.
I would like to do this to my truck

I knew there had to be a cheaper way.

What's the details?

[sarge]

http://www.awdirect.com/easy-glide-p...ngle-gear/pto/

Ok the price went up a little bit since I did the wrangler .

unbolt the selector fork assy.( CAD ) on the axle , make sure to unplug vac. and electric lines and put the assy. on the work bench.

Pry open the vac. canister that the vac. line plug into and cut out the bladder and then plug the vac. line ports. put vac. canister back together.

find a good spot on the driver side of the CAD housing and drill a hole through the aluminum housing to the inside making sure you can continue to drill into the CAD fork asstraight as possible and as close to the Forks slide shaft. Make hole just big enough for the threaded end of the PTO cable to go through. Now counter sink the outside hole to the size of the outer cable.

Find a good spot on the inside of the rig to mount the pull handle , make sure you pick a spot that can handle a good tug with out bending or breaking .

Route you cable through the fire wall and down to the CAD unit with the least tight bends as possible.

Put a dab of RTV on the hole in the CAD housing and run the cable through and into the fork, bolt the cable to the fork using lock tight. bolt CAD housing back to axle.

When you get the cable you get a cable clamp and nut and bolt. I welded the bolt to the axle tube so I could clamp the cable on on the back side of the axle tube out of harms way and straight in line with were the cable enters the CAD housing .

This is the readers digest version and with out any pictures , but the info is out there if you search a little. I have not found a good write up using this cable.

I had the cheaper PTO/ Throttle cable however I could not keep the cable from pulling out of the fork after about a day of wheeling. It became a real pain in the arse ...... the extra few buck for the threaded end sealed cable was well worth it and I never had a problem with mine once I switched.

[BIGRAM]

That'll be the plan. Thanks for the great writeup.

[kyrel69]

thanks going to have to do that

[blazerbrad]

OK gonna answer a few of the questions , as I have been busy gathering the final parts for the past few days .... first off I need an Astro Van steering box from a 2wd van , anyone got one ?

Is this the style that bolts on the inside or outside of the frame? I have a GM box from a van that bolts to the outside of the frame identical to a fullsize 80's era truck, but has opposite gearing. I know it's from a van but not sure if it's an Astro for fullsize. (I bought this from a junkyard already off the vehicle not realizing it was a van).

[scotty85]

Yeah, but like I said, I thought I was the only one.

Most people seem the hate the disco worse than brussels sprouts.

Robert

lol yes they do! not me tho,ive been running my CJ CAD on a vaccum switch for years also with no prollems. well,i did have a prollem... i was takin my dash apart and broke the switch. but that was my fault and i still had no prollem with its operation.

the shift assembly on the axle goes bad alot less often than people believe it does ;)

i do like the PTO cable idea as a fix if my shifter ever does go bad.

[sarge]

Is this the style that bolts on the inside or outside of the frame? I have a GM box from a van that bolts to the outside of the frame identical to a fullsize 80's era truck, but has opposite gearing. I know it's from a van but not sure if it's an Astro for fullsize. (I bought this from a junkyard already off the vehicle not realizing it was a van).

The Astro box bolts to the inside of the frame just like the Jeep and many other smaller SUV's theonly difference is the pitman arm throw is opposite. Since I'm moving the front axle forward this will help line things up. Thanks anyway . I'm sure one will find it's way into the lot before to long.

[sarge]

it has begun !!!! pullen the Jimmy in the garage this evening, got it on jack stands and started cutting off anything not needed.





started with the front end ,front bumper off and most of the the other crap either unbolted or plasma cut off.

moved to the back and got it out and waiting for it's new home :



60 in place in the rear......





I ordered a bunch of stuff from DIY4X and Ruffstuffspecialties on Sunday, hoping they arrive tomorrow

[94Dodge Truggy]

Lookin good! You extending the wheelbase any?

[sarge]

front will be stretched w/ dakota springs and the position of the front cross member ..... hoping to get out there today and fab up the front .

[94Dodge Truggy]

I am putting a guess on the rear bumper side plastic mouldings lasting 2 trail rides!

[sarge]

wrong , they are going bye bye before

[sarge]

My pile of parts keeps getting bigger , thank god for craigslist.

Got the front clean out and got the front cross member tack in .



Got one of my packages in the mail yesterday



mocked up the front and sat it down on all fours





I have two major problems

First problem : I have to run at least 2" spacers or have my rims recentered to clear the knuckles and have enough room for my tie rod and drag link.

Second : my pitman arm is going to hit the Diff , it is only about an inch above it sitting in the garage. Going to have to get an Astro van box before i can even drive it .

Also going to play with the springs alittle , not happy with the front location .

Still have to :

Drive shafts
brakes
exhaust
flat belly
shocks
bumpers
..............

[WrenchMonkey]

I personally prefer to run cheaper parts and drink better beer.

But to each his own.



Robert