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  • BlueOx build

    Hopefully the name hasnt been taken already. I've always called my truck that. 2003 Silverado thats been through the wrenches. Its been in two wrecks, neither my fault...so once the trans went, that was the last straw for me. Plans are leaf sprung 52's, 4.88's, 37's/Hummer beadlocks combo from Trailworthfab.com. It will be a dual purpose vehicle. No thrashing till exo, shorten rear, and no bed. On with the pics...

    I always liked this pic


    NP241C D-drop


    Gear pattern for 9.5



    BTF diff cover


    Closeup


    Running stock brakes, poor tape measure


    U-bolt flip


    Shackle flip


    1330-1350 conversion u-joint


    9.5 Installed


    Press brake that is functional, but still needs some work


    Trans parts, piece of .375", 9/16" socket


    Locking collar needs some work


    Start of winch bumper, .375" base plate, .188" brackets holes matching to frame for bolt on, 14* bends on bottom piece, tube is 1.75" .188" wall CREW


    Got this hunk of **** for 1K locally, man it needs work


    Any body need an HSA?


    '78


    Missing a couple lockout pieces on both sides


    Rear end pic


    And a face to match the name, poser shot, stock truck


    Currently I'm waiting on '89 rotors and new 14x1.5 studs. I'm currently searching for hub parts, have some not local friends with parts, but I'm thinking my best bet is a boneyard. Thats its for now. More to come.

  • #2
    Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.
    JT Jones

    83 Toyota - beater
    87 Toyota Truggy

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    • #3
      histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho
      SMITH BUILT PERIOD

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      • #4
        i would have loved to do this to my 03 instead of selling it.
        beat up rusted out k5

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        • #5
          ?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
          95 yj, fresh fuel injected 302, c-6, twin sticked 205, 3 linked high pinion d60 front, double trianulated 4 linked 14 bolt rear (all aluminum links) locked both ends, 4:56 gears, full hydro steering, high steer, 4 wheel discs, 16" 2.5 fox air shocks, 39.5" irok's. just finishing a full frame-up redo thanks to a great friend and one knowledgable(sp?) s.o.b casey cravens for without him this could not have been done in such a short time and done right!

          LOOK OUT "WHITEY" HERE I COME!!!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by twiztedzuki View Post
            histeer arm looks like death trap, **** mud boggers do! id keep bed and dovetail for looks, also it will not stay dual purpose for long so spend wisely so you aint upgrading suspension each year. b a fun trail rig fo sho
            I want to shorten wheelbase at that time. Probably wouldnt be street legal then. Plan is to upgrade when it breaks, unfortunately not if, but when.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by boomhauer View Post
              ?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
              Same reason you have a linked HPD60 front.;)

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Jonesy View Post
                Looks like a great start. I would love to have a SAS truck like this.
                Thanks bud.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by boomhauer View Post
                  ?...why do you have a ford front end for a chevy truck unless you are planning to change a lot of stuff.?
                  have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.
                  beat up rusted out k5

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by underpowered View Post
                    have to change more stuff to use a chevy front end. IFS GM trucks are drivers drop from the factory, where as GM SFA trucks were all passenger drop. Ford axles are drivers drop, so easier to swap to match the stock front output side.
                    I figured I'd see you on here sooner than later. I also swapped in the NP241 and floor shifter, which is pretty much the same as any Heep NP231. I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft. Bessler had a Red 73-87K10 that I was going to steal the flange and rear springs from. I couldnt get the flange off without battery powered impact, so I had to come back. When I did, it was gone. I just remembered Jacks, which is about 5 min from my house, they have all kinds of fun stuff!

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                    • #11
                      Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,
                      1994 Dodge Ram 5.9L SWB
                      3/4 axles, 39.5 IROKS, HYDRO assist

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by BIGRAM View Post
                        Exo it quick!! Yota drivers depend on us full-size rigs to widen the trails,,
                        Ha! Just checked out some pics of your rig. Looks like it does great! That's good to know there are other FS rigs for the squirrely 'Yotas. It'll all come soon enough.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BillysGruff View Post
                          I'm looking for a 205/208 flange so I can run a 1350CV d-shaft.
                          When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by 93 Krawler View Post
                            When I first did my SAS, I had a cv shaft made to fit the stock 241 flange. I killed the cv first trip to Harlan, so I improvised. I bought a 1350 205 u-bolt style yoke, took the stock 241 flange and cut the end off so the 241 and 205 were the same length as the stock 241 yoke. After some grinding, it got better angles than the original CV did. I also had to notch the cross member so the shaft didn't hit it as the front end drops out. I'm sure I could have had a high dollar cv shaft made, but this way cheaper. The joints do wear more than usual because of the steeper angle, so I use the Moog 231 super joint that has a lifetime warranty from most parts stores. Advance seems to have the most stores, so I use them. Good luck with your build.
                            Some good tech right there. :shake: I've been clued in from some other friends that a newer 2500/3500 Dodge front d-shaft is 1350 from the factory, so if I can source one of those and the 205/208 flange, and grind for some more clearance, I'll be GTG.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 93 Krawler View Post
                              When I first did my SAS
                              Do you have a link for a build thread? Or an image placeholder? I'm currently working on the brackets. I'll be buying more tube and springs next month.

                              http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/22-553.htm

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