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  • #46
    I think BL is better now. It was in b/t .006 and .007 every place I took a reading. I used BillaVista's method that for every .010" carrier shim change there is .007" BL change, so I settled on .005" shim movement to the NRGS to try get me .0035" more BL.


    Drive side, how do I get rid of the rhombus shape?


    Coast side:

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    • #47
      Relief cut in the shoulder, as you all can see they are badly pitted.


      New bearings pressed on to carrier and pinion


      Finally got the housing damn near completely clean


      First successful drill and tap, that bit that comes with the set is so much sharper than anything I've ever seen


      Uuuuuuppppdate time

      Old kingpins have been removed, slapped down some 250* paint after cleaning


      Moose knuckle


      Carnage for Kyle

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      • #48
        Looks good.

        Hope you have better luck than I did with those conical bolts for the caliper. Mine kept letting the parts fall out. I ended up using a regular bolt instead and tacking a small washer to the bracket. Havn't lost any parts since then.

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        • #49
          Thanks man. It's getting there. I've read that about those bolts. One guy suggested using allen head bolts so they dont stick out as far and its hard to overtorque them. Next I need to get the housing secured down somehow, make up an extension, and torque down the kingpins.

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          • #50
            A small update, actually been working like crazy on this thing. BTF diff cover welded, spring clamps made, made new shackles, modified the hangers for better clearance, hubs all assembled, springs painted/removed overload, brakes installed..


            Then this happened...I think I welded it too hot and warped the bung


            Also working on some double shear steering


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            • #51
              Just bought this from Besslers, and I learned that stock GMT800 front calipers are the same as the rears on the newer 14 bolts.


              I'm going to be getting the BFGoodrich H1's soon and am going to make some recentered H1 wheels. I'm also switching up the front hangers to a WFO shackle/bushing hanger setup. I decided its going to be better to mock everything up with all parts under the vehicle rather than fully welding w/o officially knowing its going to work. I also changed my mind about the brackets in that I'm going to bolt them on rather than weld. Dont want to stress the frame at the heaviest part of the whole vehicle. CoG on my truck is the upper bellhousing bolt.

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              • #52
                Update time.
                Got the front end sitting on the tires, so much work. Does anyone have a bender w/1.5" die? I need to finish up with the drag-link, weld on the double-shear brackets for the HSA's, flip it around in the driveway, toss in the 10.5, build/get front d-shaft, and then it'll at least be driveable. I still want to do a panhard, and even farther downthe road I'm going to build sliders and a rear bumper.

                Double-shear XJ pitman arm


                Shackle angle




                Centerline is about 3" forward
                Last edited by BillysGruff; 06-03-2014, 01:09 PM.

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                • #53
                  [QUOTE=BillysGruff;80726]Update time.
                  Got the front end sitting on the tires, so much work. Does anyone have a bender w/1.5" die? I need to finish up with the drag-link, weld on the double-shear brackets for the HSA's, flip it around in the driveway, toss in the 10.5, build/get front d-shaft, and then it'll at least be driveable. I still want to do a panhard, and even farther downthe road I'm going to build sliders and a rear bumper.

                  I have a bender with a 1.5" die, in Elsmere KY

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                  • #54
                    Well that figures, as soon as I cut it to length and weld in the bungs, a nice fella chimes in. Ah well. Heres some pics for your viewing displeasure

                    I was able to keep stock brake lines as they are pretty much the same size as the stock Ford caliper brake line bolts. 10mm vs 3/8". Im also excited I wont have to move the steering box.


                    A question I was dying to have answered...Do GMT800 1500 stock front calipers fit on the rear of GMT800 10.5" FF? Yes they do, and this saved me about $200.


                    02 AAM complete with Detroit, 4.88's, diff kit, Undercover Fapworks diff cover, Chassis Unlimited pinion guard, stock front brakes, and freshy fresh paint that no one cares about
                    Last edited by BillysGruff; 06-17-2014, 03:41 PM.

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                    • #55
                      Looks good but I do have a question....


                      Is that a skinned chicken sitting on a five gallon bucket?
                      One Country, One Flag, One Language...
                      LIKE IT OR LEAVE IT!!!

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                      • #56


                        It most definitely is, thats hilarious. I didnt even notice that.

                        No, its the packaging material that Andy from TWF uses to ship H1 wheel parts. Its stained white because it was used to soak up brake fluid. I've used that material to ship stuff that I've sold and as rags cause theres a **** ton of it. Its interesting that he chose pink as the color.

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                        • #57
                          Brakes bled and torqued, ebrakes connected, u-bolts torqued, cleaned, and painted, shock mounts welded/painted, spacers torqued, new shackles for rear, diff cover all sealed up, oil in, dshaft connected and sorta driveable. I'm finishing up the front brackets to allow for a couple more bolt holes, then I'll remove everything, paint, and reinstall. Then its on to shock mounts and frame plate for the front....



                          Distance view
                          Last edited by BillysGruff; 07-02-2014, 09:45 AM.

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                          • #58
                            Oh, nice!

                            Come do my Burban...
                            DIRTY DEEDS, DONE DIRT CHEAP
                            Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stranger

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                            • #59
                              Thanks man. Getchu a front axle and I'm there!

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                              • #60
                                Bomp!




                                RTI yard ramp




                                Exhaust is now welded and painted with 2000° header paint I did learn that I didnt have to lap back into the puddle because it would just cause burn through. Too bad I waited to one of the last welds to learn that.


                                Probably 1/8" clearance b/t hanger and p-side pipe, still need to put trans heat guard back on


                                Pretty good clearance here, stupid rusty rockers


                                For some reason it no longer rests on the trans xmember, not sure how that worked out, but I like it


                                Bushing is tweaked all to ****, but meh


                                Reinstalls fender well covers BUILD THREAD


                                Made a cutout of the xmember w/33° angles and welded in some 3/16" plate


                                Ordered 4 of these....hopefully they come in Skywalker Glowing Blue


                                I'm going to get some of the air soft pellets from Wally world to balance the H1's. I get up to about 35mph and then the steering wheel starts to wobble. I'm curious, though...The wheels have balancing media already on the insides, little square looking things. Should I remove those or just leave em be, and add the pellets? It drives kinda funny if the road is angled either way. It will pull to that side. Does that mean camber is off? Oh yeah, I finally measured my caster and its at 7°.
                                Last edited by BillysGruff; 08-06-2014, 01:00 PM.

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