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Zach’s buggy build

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  • Zach’s buggy build

    Started designing the new buggy for Zach. Upgraded my Bendtech to Pro today!




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    sigpic

    Keep them on all 4's

  • #2
    I wish I could've used that on my exo. Not knowing the angles would be an issue.

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    • #3
      Looking good. Is the red salvaged CJ frame?....If so, id think about starting with fresh tube! Just my .02
      1985 4runner "Redneck Gigalo"

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      • #4
        Originally posted by bbtank45 View Post
        Looking good. Is the red salvaged CJ frame?....If so, id think about starting with fresh tube! Just my .02
        Nope! It's the new box frame we are making. The old CJ7 frame was cracked and rusting out.

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        • #5
          Good call, look forward to seeing progress
          1985 4runner "Redneck Gigalo"

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          • #6
            Update on Chassis

            Picked up ALL the steel today from Industrial Tube and Steel. highly recommend them. I called 2 other steel places and tubing is over $7 per foot for 1.75x120 wall. They sold it to me for $3.67!

            Brody is bringing me I-Beams for a Jig I am going to build for frames and then we will be off to the races!

            Attached Files
            sigpic

            Keep them on all 4's

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            • #7
              Pic






              There will be more tubing in the front section as well
              sigpic

              Keep them on all 4's

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              • #8
                Originally posted by jeepmanjeff View Post
                Picked up ALL the steel today from Industrial Tube and Steel. highly recommend them. I called 2 other steel places and tubing is over $7 per foot for 1.75x120 wall. They sold it to me for $3.67!
                That is a good price. Did you call Hirschberg Steel? It was $3.85 per foot with tax when I bought all that tube. A lot of places rip off the public.

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                • #9
                  Nice! I like it...

                  Looking at the S-curves at the rear of the box frame, are those needed for clearance? Or to mount something? They might be simpler and stronger if you just bent one 45 and straight down to the crossmember...
                  Attached Files
                  DIRTY DEEDS, DONE DIRT CHEAP
                  Whatever doesn't kill you makes you stranger

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                  • #10
                    Simply to be different


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                    Keep them on all 4's

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                    • #11
                      If your planning on a future rear seat, push those s curves back as far as rear upper link clearance will allow. Mine has similar curves and when I put rear floor in for kids it kind of screwed them for footwell. Livable but not great.

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                      • #12
                        New clear ORI’s are in and they are sharp!!


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                        • #13
                          So Shiny [emoji50]

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by barnhartal View Post
                            If your planning on a future rear seat, push those s curves back as far as rear upper link clearance will allow. Mine has similar curves and when I put rear floor in for kids it kind of screwed them for footwell. Livable but not great.
                            That may be an adjustment we make once we get started on the rear section of the chassis.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by 93 Krawler View Post
                              So Shiny [emoji50]

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                              Oh I know! They'll look sharp on the jeep-buggy.

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